Original text by Vivienne Tang
Photography by Joan Arroyo
Yohji Yamamoto is known for his reluctance to talk to the media. His shy and private nature expresses itself through his designs alone, revealing the fringes of his secrets. Given the rare chance to interview the Japanese legend, Prestige Hong Kong Fashion Editor Vivienne Tang catches a glimpse of what lies beneath
Yohji Yamamoto revolutionised the fashion world when he showcased his Paris debut collection in 1981. His singular black, masculine, deconstructed looks have changed not only the way we look at fashion, but also our perception of how women should dress. His dark creations have become a distinctive counterpoint to the colourful, feminine styles that had dominated the runways. French musician Jean-Michel Jarre once described a woman in Yohji as a nymphomaniac nun in clothes that are sensual and ritualistic.
Yamamoto is as mysterious and contradictory as his asymmetric designs. He is attracted by flaws and imperfections and despises anything that looks overly commercial and sexy.
Yamamoto, 64, was born in Tokyo and raised as an only child by his mother, who made a living as a seamstress. His father died in World War II. Yohji graduated with a law degree from Keio University, then trained as a designer at Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo.
He founded the Y’s company in 1972 and soon became professionally involved with soul mate and Comme des Garçons founder Rei Kawakubo. They had a romantic relationship and remain close friends.
His empire comprises numerous lines and collaborations, including Yohji Yamamoto, Y’s, + Noir (the black line), Y’s for living (bed wear and accessories), Limi Feu (designed by his daughter, Limi Yamamoto), Y-3 (a crossover with sports brand adidas), Y’s Mandarina (a collaboration with accessory brand Mandarina Duck), Yohji Yamamoto Stormy Weather (a collaboration with jewellery brand Mikimoto) and Coming Soon (his latest line, which doesn’t display the designer’s name and is presented through video on YouTube). And with Hermès he’s launched the Yohji Bag, available only by special order at four Hermès boutiques worldwide.
Amid his tight schedule, Yamamoto runs other projects, such as collaborations on operas and films, as well as the Yohji Yamamoto Fund for Peace, which sponsors a Chinese designer to participate in an education programme in Japan or Europe along with a Chinese model to debut at Paris Fashion Week.
His career spans four decades and has garnered him several awards. But his work always seems to exude an autobiographical aftertaste, making use of war-inspired elements over and over. His fondness for women in military uniforms, his men’s spring/summer 2008 collection, which showed a subtle thread of a soldier’s homecoming, and his men’s autumn/winter 2008 show, with a martial drumbeat soundtrack, evince traces of his life story and his grappling with being a war widow’s son.
